Thursday, November 7, 2013

2013 Growing Season





We've got this sharp young kid that has been working with us at Piña Vineyard Management for about a year and a half. Justin is a youngster half my age, married with a 2 & ½ year old daughter.  He continually amazes me with how much he knows about grapes and how much he has learned about the vineyards we care for. In addition to that, he's humble and has a great attitude.  Recently, he wrote an in-house summary of the 2013 growing season.  I thought it was very well written.  He included just enough technical information to satisfy those that need it, but not so much to lose the interest of those that don't.

See what you think:
 

2013 Growing Season
by Justin Leigon

                The winter leading up to the 2013 growing season was a repeat of the previous year. It was exceptionally dry. Of the ~25” of rain that fell from 11/1/12 through 3/31/13, 10.5” fell over five consecutive days: 11/28-12/2. There were a few showers to follow in December, but after the first of the year we only received ~3-5” of rain by the end of March. This led to soils drying out much earlier than normal. In many vineyards, irrigation was started during bud-break in order to ensure healthy early season growth.

                Similar to 2012, bud-break was 5-7 days later than average. Fortunately, the warm weather in April allowed things to catch up. April had an average daily high temp of 77°F. Approximately 10 days of April were above 80°F, and on 4/22 we saw temps in the 90s. There were only a handful of frost days with some areas never needing to run their wind machines. 

                The nice consistent spring weather led to an early bloom. Most locations were ~7-10 days early. In some of the later areas such as Howell Mountain, Calistoga, and Pope Valley there was shatter as a result of very cold mornings during the critical bloom stage. Unusual late season frost damage was even seen in a few locations because of the mornings of 5/22 & 5/23 where temps reached the low 30s.

                The weather continued to be moderately warm throughout the spring with very little rainfall. The early season heat helped with grape skin, tannin, and overall flavor development. Yields appeared to be average to slightly above average with potential for an exceptional vintage. A brief scare occurred during the last week of June when temps broke 100°F for a few days. Some areas saw close to 110°F. Fortunately, veraison had yet to begin so the berries were still hard and protected.

                Most areas were 10-14 days earlier than average for veraison. With the exception of some minor fruit thinning to balance out vines, the rest of the 2013 season was thankfully uneventful. Some areas needed to be dialed back on the irrigation in order to conserve water, but the vines were able to manage throughout the rest of the season.

                Harvest for Piña began on August 8th with Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc. This was 20 days earlier than 2012. Most areas were ~2 weeks early. Yields were similar to last year and slightly bigger in some areas while slightly lower in other areas. The perfect weather allowed winemakers to choose the flavor profile they were wanting. The warm season led to some vineyards having high sugars but needing to wait a little longer for the flavors to catch-up. This was actually a blessing for some winemakers, as the fast & furious harvest left many wineries with no available tank space. A few windy days during the middle of September led to accelerated dehydration and a raisin thinning pass was required in a few areas of the valley. Brief showers occurred around 9/21, but advantageous weather followed and the fruit that was still hanging dried out quickly. For a lot of wineries, harvest wrapped up by the end of September. This was one of the earliest that most winemakers can remember.

                The general consensus is that the 2013 vintage is one for the history books. The season had days full of beautiful weather and cold nights to maintain grape acidity. Thick grape skins with rapid sugar accumulation allowed winemakers to pick based on flavor development. Let’s hope for a repeat in 2014!     

Monday, September 30, 2013

Punching down the cap

Once our red wine grapes are run through crusher/stemmer, the resulting "Must" is pumped into a fermenting vessel. We have several stainless steel tank fermenters for this purpose, but some of the smaller lots are fermented in bins like those in the pictures below. As the must ferments, the berries will rise to the surface and form the "cap". To extract skin color from the berries, the cap must be churned back into the liquid.  This is called punching down the cap and it is done at least twice a day while the wine is actively fermenting. These pictures were taken on Sunday afternoon. Pablo drove from & to Napa to do this 20 minute job. Had I known it needed to be done, I could have saved him the trip.

Our intern "Pablo" punching down the cap
 
The Punch down tool
 
Mixing up the must


Thursday, September 19, 2013

Winery Dog Yogi, Part 5 – Long Live Yogi!

I love this picture:
 
Yogi making dust at the Wolff Vineyard
 
 
It's been over 2 years since I've written about Yogi. Since our visitors to the winery enjoy seeing him more than me, I thought it was time to give his fans an update.
 
I was in Wyoming last week. Yogi had a dog-sitter for 6 days. It's the longest we've been apart in almost 2 years.  To say that Yogi is with me 24/7 is only a slight exaggeration.  No, he doesn't get to sleep in my bed. But he does come to work with me every day and he has a bed in the corner of my small office at the vineyard management company. He considers me the "Big Dog" and prefers it that way. When I'm not around, he seems to get anxious and has a hard time relaxing with the responsibility of protecting those in his presence. It's not a job he takes lightly.
 
So for those 6 days, he was the Big Dog. In addition to the added responsibility, he didn't get as much exercise as when he is with me.  When I got back, I knew he needed to run and let off some steam. So I took him to the Wolff Vineyard. The Wolff Vineyard is at the end of State Lane East of Yountville. The vineyard blocks are on both sides of a hill that is fairly steep in some spots. And Yogi seems to prefer running up the steep spots, even when he's been exercising regularly. He started running as soon as his feet hit the ground. He stopped at the first gate to wait impatiently for me to open it. But as he was waiting, he spotted wild turkeys on the hillside. Even though Yogi has Lab blood in him, he's not that interested in birds. But wild turkeys are a different story. They spend most of their time on the ground and will only fly when forced to fly.  The chase was on and was over as soon as they lifted off and flew over the vineyard. Yogi barked as if to say “and stay away!”, but they had gotten his adrenaline flowing. So he continued to run and found more wild turkeys on the other side of the hill. It was after he made this second flock fly, that he spun around and headed down through the vineyard again. It was then that I snapped the picture above. He was kicking up lots of dust but not chasing anything. He was running for the pure pleasure of running.
 
As I mentioned in a previous post, rabbits are his specialty. When we walk the vineyards, he is obsessed with finding and chasing rabbits. He has never caught one, and I don't think he would know what to do if he did. In his younger years, if a rabbit was within sight, he would be chasing it. But Yogi turned six this last May. He has learned that if a rabbit has a big head start, he might as well try to find one that’s a bit closer. At least that’s what I prefer to believe – not that he’s getting too old, he’s just maturing and getting wiser. So he certainly doesn’t comply with one of my favorite quotes:
 
 
Age does not always bring wisdom. Sometimes age comes alone.
Garrison Keillor  
 
 

Friday, August 23, 2013

Pablo Sanz - Our 2013 Winery Intern



I apologize.  Lots of water under the bridge since my last post, but I'm hoping to have more time to dedicate to this blog in the future. Now, on to other topics.

As has become the tradition, every year about this time we introduce our harvest intern. I ask them to provide me with an auto-biography that I can include in a post to share with anyone that is interested. This year, I suggested that Pablo read the posts introducing Rachel Simpson (2010), Daniel Brennan (2011) and Sierra Reed (2012), and use them as a guide for his auto-biography. Pablo sent me a very brief bio with 4 pictures and the following message

     " I try to do my best, but I don't know, I don't feel like reaching the same level as the other biographies you have there...   Here's mine, feel free to change something if you see any mistake and to give better format, or whatever."

I encouraged him to share a family picture with us, and he did so promptly.  He had even added a bit to his bio, which as you can see, is still very short.  I'll bet he doesn't do Facebook either.

I hope to create another post, or two about Pablo in the future, but it may be a challenge getting him to talk. 

Pablo is from Spain, the origin of my Dad's folks.   And he arrives this Monday...




 
I was born in Madrid (Spain), where I grew up and studied.

I obtained a Bachelor in Biology and started my specialization, making a Master in Forensic and Physic Anthropology. After finishing it I decided to study more seriously one of the family hobbies, the wine. My parents were always attracted to the world of wine, even more having relatives living in the center of one of the strongest Spanish appellations. And their interest meant to me and my brother plenty of chances to get to know how a winery works and the pride the winemakers had showing people where they work.

 

I made a Master in Viticulture and Winemaking, where, since the first week of lessons I realized that I was really interested in the oenology, finding it a lot more challenging than I could have ever expected, and captivating me instantly.

 

I decided to make Winemaking practices during the Master and I could arrange them at Bodegas Lleiroso, a small winery (130 tons) placed in the well know Spanish appellation, Ribera del Duero, where I could be trained almost in every step of the winemaking process, and where I could work with the strong variety Tempranillo.

 

Just after finishing my Master in Winemaking, I decided to keep going and at the same time travel. I was hired by Matua, in New Zealand. I worked there as cellar hand, learning another totally different way of working, taking into account that this winery was completely different (28.000 tons), working with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir among other varieties.
 

I could also meet people from all around the world, some of them sharing my love for the wine.

 

This experience encouraged and trained me to take the next step and keep travelling making wine.
 

My next stop California, looking forward to it!