Grape Contracts Past & Present

Recently, I was forwarded an email offering grapes for sale. The interesting thing about this email was that the price per ton was dependent on the Brix (% of sugar) at harvest. I’m sure this is a common practice now, as it should be in these days of extended hang time. The following text is taken from that email:


It’s common knowledge that as grapes are left on the vines past Brix readings in the mid twenties, they will start dehydrating, and thereby lose weight. It has become an issue between growers and grape buyers, when the grape contracts do not address this factor. Many long term contracts from years past simply state that the buyer will pay X dollars per ton, and the grower will harvest when directed by the buyer. So, as some winemakers are prefering additional hang time in recent years, the grower is feeling cheated. I’m thinking that eventually, most all grape purchase contracts will address the Brix vs $/ton issue.

But, what made this email even more interesting to me, was that I remember a winemaker from 30 plus years ago that had contracts where the price was determined by Brix at harvest. But those contracts had a significant difference in philosophy from the current contracts. To the best of my recollection, that winemaker wanted Cabernet in the 23.5 to 24.0 Brix range. And there was a schedule right in the contract noting how much the grower would be “docked”, if the grapes were delivered outside of that range – Lower or HIGHER! And these were not buyer directed harvests. In other words, the buyer didn’t tell the grower when to pick, the grower decided when to pick (with minimal intervention by the winery). So as the grapes approached maturity, the grower was forced to continually test the grapes in the field in an attempt to hit that optimum target Brix range at harvest. Vineyard owners would often pressure their vineyard foreman or vineyard manager to deliver the grapes in the optimum range. Missing the target could have a significant impact on the profitability of the crop.

One other thing to consider is that the ripeness of the grapes varied from bunch to bunch and vine to vine more than today’s premium wine vineyards. Some winemakers feel the most important factor for quality grapes is a uniform crop. Today, most vineyards receive more time and attention than those of past years, at least in the premium wine category. There is much more emphasis on canopy management, sun exposure, water management and selective fruit thinning. Probably the biggest contribution to a uniform crop is the selective fruit thinning. Selective fruit thinning is when small bunches, and less-ripe bunches, and excessive numbers of bunches are cut off the vine to promote uniform ripening of the rest of the crop. This is not done without a bit of anguish. Imagine paying all year long for the best care of your vineyard, only to have to PAY MORE to have some of the fruit cut off and just fall to the ground.

So back then, making the decision to pick was a bit of a gamble. It was not uncommon for picking to be put on hold as the first load of grapes was delivered to the winery. After the Brix reading was taken, the grower would decide to continue picking, or send the crews home.

Field testing for Brix and Brix readings done at the winery will be the topic of another day.

So who was the winemaker that developed some of those early Brix related contracts?

That winemaker just happened to be related to the grower noted in the above email.

Care to venture a guess?